This example of the Moritz Grossmann Atum* was designated a unique piece by the Glashütte brand when it was made in 2017. It includes several references to the watchmaking of Karl Moritz Grossman, the 19th century pioneer the brand is named after. It wears a 41mm platinum case with a white enamel dial and alpha-style hands manually crafted and finished. The Calibre 100.1 is beautifully finished and features a proprietary winding and setting action.

Moritz Grossman, currently in its 16th year as a modern brand, is named after pioneering 19th century Glashütte watchmaker Karl Moritz Grossman. He is not only known for the clocks, pocketwatches and marine chronometres he created but for founding the German School of Watchmaking (which closed in 1992).

In 2008, watchmaker Christine Hutter resurrected the historic name and the brand started producing watches from 2010. The brand today is known for its highly professional atelier, fine finishing and limited output.

This watch – first retailed in 2017 – was at the time known as the Atum and featured many details that referenced the work of its historic namesake. The line has since been subsumed into the Benu collection. This particular piece was the first created with this configuration of dial and case metal, earning it a ‘unique piece’ designation. However, it is not known whether the brand has created pieces of this configuration since, as exclusivity was not guaranteed.

This Atum, reference MG01.B-03 A000810 features a platinum case, 41mm across and 11.5mm tall. Its three parts are equally high polished. A thin bezel frames the sapphire crystal on the dial side while the substantial midcase is home to the jet exhaust-shaped crown and a pusher at 4 o’clock. The thin rim of the display caseback is secured by seven screws, with details such as the brand mark, place of origin and the words ‘unique piece’ engraved in between. The lugs, that have a marginally concave profile, and slim faceted edges, are substantial. They stand 20mm apart and come furnished with a navy, alligator-grained leather strap secured by a signed platinum pin buckle.

The dial, with the Roman numerals printed in black, save for the blue reserved for 12 o’clock, references Moritz Grossman pocket watches such as the No. 5798. It is a lesson in the masterful precision application of heat. The glass-like vitreous enamel dial is achieved by applying layers of enamel paint, with the dial treated to high temperature in between layers. Outside the hours chapter sits a black chemin de fer track of minutes.

The subsidiary seconds register, crafted separately and secured to the dial, also features a chemin de fer track along with an Arabic chapter at intervals of 10. The alpha-style hands, a particular point of pride for the brand, are crafted and finished entirely by hand. Their complex shape and rounded finish, terminating in needle-points, is evidence of this. They are also treated to short burst of heat, giving them their particular purple-brown shade.

Another interesting detail is the sequence of actions to set the time. A result of a proprietary mechanism, it involves gently pulling on the crown, which snaps back to its original position flush with the case. This stops the balance wheel, allowing the wearer to set the time precisely. Once this is done, depressing the pusher at 4 o’clock engages the balance once again.

This trait of the Calibre 100.1 is just one of its charms. The movement is predictably Germanic and finely finished. Crafted from German silver, a prominent mainplate dominates the view, and is decorated with wide striping, with the brand name, Glashütte mark, and jewel count hand-engraved on it. The mainspring wheel is solarised while the click spring and the ratchet wheel are black polished. The baseplate wears a frosted finish. The jewels, notably, are sapphire rather than rubies. The visible jewels are secured in gold chatons, including the one on which the large balance wheel pivots.

The architecture of the calibre closely resembles the likes of Grossman’s Lever Chronometer movement No. 5306, down to the inclusion of the micrometer screw. Mounted transversely on the balance bridge, the thread of the screw is coupled with the fine point of the index tail. Turning the screw moves the index tail along a finely graduated scale, allowing for very precise adjustment of the active length of the hairspring to correct any deviation in linear timekeeping.  

Both balance and escapement bridges are engraved by hand in the floral style typical to Glashütte watchmaking from the 19th century. The hand engraving is deftly executed, at once delicate and deep, and demands closer inspection. Luckily, the watch comes with a magnifying glass in its box.

The Atum represents one of the finest examples of modern Glashütte watchmaking done in the tradition of the region’s heyday as one of the premier centres of the craft.  

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Moritz Grossmann Atum will be subject to 20% VAT

Closer look

Condition

This Moritz Grossmann Atum is in excellent overall condition. The case and lugs show virtually no signs of wear and have been well preserved. The enamel dial, hands (annealed to a brown violet hue) and movement (with specially ordered brown screws) are free from any signs of imperfections. The hallmarks and engravings on both the caseback and buckle are crisp and well defined.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.